Best Motorcycle Spotlights 2026: Comparison, Prices, and Buying Guide

TL;DR: which motorcycle auxiliary lights to choose

If you are short on time, these eight cases cover most situations. Each choice is explained later in the article.

Comparison table of the best motorcycle auxiliary lights 2026

All luminous-flux values are normalized per pair, because that is how auxiliary lights are used. Where the manufacturer states the figure per individual light, we doubled it. Prices recorded on Endurrad when the article was updated: they may vary depending on promotions and availability.

Scroll the table sideways to see all columns.

Legend. “n/a” means data not published by the manufacturer in a verifiable form: we did not estimate it. Two honest notes about the DENALI figures: the manufacturer states lumens per pair for the D series, but its own official pages are inconsistent about the D7, which appears as 7,665 lm per pair in one place and per individual pod in another. We chose the per-pair value, the more conservative option. For the DR1, we could not find the figure published in a verifiable form: 2,190 lm is the value listed in the catalog and should be considered indicative.

How we carried out this comparison

Let's say this upfront, because it is the part almost nobody writes about: we did not carry out instrumental tests. There are no lux-meter readings, no candela measurements, and no timed night tests. Anyone publishing a “tested” comparison without showing their method and equipment is telling you something else.

This comparison is based on four sources:

• The ECE approval certificates for the LOBOO lights, issued by the Homologation Authority of the Republic of San Marino and available as PDFs from the respective product pages. These are public documents, with a certificate number and test report.
• LOBOO's official user manuals and catalog, from which the power ratings, tightening torques, wiring diagrams, and package contents are taken.
• DENALI Electronics' official technical specifications for lumens, watts, dimensions, IP rating, and beam certifications.
• The editorial experience of those who sell these products in Italy, which helps interpret the data but does not replace it.

We compared the models using five criteria: what is actually approved (device, beam type, class), what really arrives in the package, how much current the system draws, how controllable the light is while riding, and how much it costs to get a functioning system, not how much the individual component costs.

Where a figure could not be verified, we left it blank. It is less spectacular than a full table, but it is the only way to help you spend your money wisely.

How to choose motorcycle auxiliary lights

Lumens: how many do you really need?

Short answer: between 8,000 and 15,000 lumens per pair is enough for the vast majority of road and mixed-use applications. Above 19,000 lumens, the limiting factor is no longer the light—it is the electrical system and adjustment.

The lumen measures the total luminous flux emitted, not where that light ends up. Two 15,000-lumen lights can perform in completely opposite ways: one concentrates everything into a narrow cone reaching 300 meters, while the other spreads the same amount over a width of 40 meters. The first lets you spot the roe deer sooner; the second lets you read the road edge through a bend.

Then there is the question of measurement units. Many manufacturers state raw lumens, meaning the theoretical sum of the LEDs before optical losses: the light coming out of the lens is always lower. And as you saw in the table, some specify figures per pair while others specify them per individual light. Before comparing two numbers, always check that they refer to the same thing.

The practical reference point: a standard low beam on a modern maxi-enduro produces around 1,000–1,500 lumens. A well-adjusted pair rated at 8,000 lumens is already a different category. Beyond that, useful range increases—not the impression of “a lot of light.”

Wattage and electrical consumption

It is the constraint that almost nobody checks before buying, and the only one that can leave you stranded.

The catalog’s actual figures: the L7S draws 80 W on low beam and 150 W with both beams active. The L16 reaches 190 W. The L18S reaches 210 W, the highest figure in the range. A pair of DENALI DL-9 lights draws around 144 W.

Now calculate it with what you already have installed: heated grips (30-50 W), a heated jacket (50-90 W), a CarPlay display, and a USB charger. On an adventure bike, the alternator has some margin, but that margin is not infinite, and it is used up especially at idle or in slow traffic, when the engine speed does not help.

Operating rule: add up the load of all accessories and compare it with the alternator surplus specified for your motorcycle. If you do not know it, ask the dealer before ordering, not afterward.

Spot, flood, and combo beam

This is where almost all perceived quality is determined.

• Spot: a narrow, long-range beam. It is useful on fast main roads and at night during long transfers. On its own, it leaves the sides dark and causes eye strain.
• Flood: a wide, short-range beam. It illuminates the edges, slow bends, and narrow dirt tracks. On its own, it does not add reach.
• Combo or hybrid: both things together, in a single housing or with one light of each type.

DENALI’s TriOptic system, found on the D2, D3, D4, and DM, takes this logic to the extreme: each light comes with one spot lens installed and one flood lens included, so with a pair you can use spot+spot, flood+flood, or one lens of each type. It is real flexibility, paid for with greater configuration complexity. The DL series, on the other hand, has non-interchangeable lenses: you choose the beam when you buy.

Low beam and high beam: the difference that changes everything

Short answer: an “auxiliary high-beam” light is designed to switch on together with the motorcycle’s high beam. A light with an approved low beam can remain on during normal riding. They are two different products, not two levels of the same product.

It is the most important distinction in the entire article, and the one catalogs fail to explain.

The DENALI headlights (D3, D4, D7, and the DL series) are approved as driving beam, meaning auxiliary high beam, under ECE R112 or R149 regulations. They work alongside the bike’s original high beam: they switch on with it and off with it.

The LOBOO L-series headlights are approved under ECE R149.00, with both low beam and high beam approved. The L7S has a genuine low-beam cutoff line—the horizontal step that prevents the light from shining into the eyes of oncoming traffic.

This does not make LOBOO «better» and DENALI «worse». It makes the two systems suited to two different ways of using a motorcycle. If your problem is seeing far when the road is clear, an auxiliary high beam is the right answer. If your problem is having more useful light even when riding into traffic, you need an approved low beam.

Color temperature, white light, and yellow light

Cool white at 6000 K always seems more powerful. In the garage, it is; to your eyes, it is not.

On wet asphalt, in fog, airborne dust, or snow, very cool white light produces glare: suspended particles reflect the light back and create a bright wall in front of your helmet. A warmer tone, around 3000 K, cuts through better and causes less fatigue on a long ride.

A small technical clarification: selective yellow does not «see through» fog. No light does. It reduces backscatter, meaning how much the fog reflects back toward you. The practical result is an image with less haze and more contrast, which the eye interprets as «I can see better».

The traditional way to achieve this is a yellow lens cover, included with the L7S and L variants. With a filter, however, you lose some of the light output because it is a filter and absorbs light. The elegant way is to change the LED's color temperature directly: the L16 and L18S range from 3000 to 6000 K by turning the dial, without filters and without disassembling anything, across eight levels. On a rainy night in the Apennines, this is the feature that makes the biggest difference, and it is the technical distinction that justifies their higher price.

DRLs and daytime running lights

DRL lights are not for seeing; they are for being seen. The catalog contains only one product that integrates them into the auxiliary light: the LOBOO L7X, with switchable white/amber DRLs synchronized with the original turn signals. When you activate the turn signal, the DRL flashes with it, making your silhouette much easier for anyone watching from an intersection to recognize.

There is, however, one restriction you should know before ordering, and it is stated on the product page: the ECE certificate covering the L7S, L7, L7-800MT, and L7-DS525X does not cover the L7X. It is a different type, and the specific document has been requested from LOBOO; until it arrives, that light should not be considered approved. If approval is a requirement for you, choose the L7S.

Intensity adjustment: dial or dimmer

Across the entire LOBOO L series, you get eight levels of intensity adjustable while riding via an aluminum dial mounted near the clutch control, operated with your thumb without taking your hands off the handlebars. It is a feature that seems like a detail until you use it: low level behind a car, full power as soon as the road clears.

DENALI achieves the same result electronically with DataDim: the lights automatically change intensity in response to the original high-beam control. However, it requires a module or controller: the universal DialDim at €331.00, or a specific CANsmart. With DialDim, you also get functions that LOBOO does not offer: a horn-activated strobe, automatic shutoff with the turn signal, an electronic fuse, and a battery voltmeter.

The fundamental difference: LOBOO puts the control system inside the product, while DENALI sells it as a module. The first approach costs less and works immediately; the second costs more but grows with the motorcycle.

IP rating, heat dissipation, and vibrations

The two digits in the IP rating indicate protection against dust and liquids. IP67 means temporary immersion up to one meter, IP68 means continuous immersion at greater depths, and IP69K means resistance to high-pressure, high-temperature water jets.

Regarding the catalog: IP68 across the entire LOBOO L series except the L7X, which is IP67. IP67 on the DENALI D3 and D7. IP68 and IP69K across the entire DL series, which states that it uses robotic lens sealing and internal potting at the cable entry—the point at which these products actually fail. In real life, an auxiliary light does not drown; it fills with condensation. And condensation almost always enters through the cable, not the lens.

Regarding heat: a hot LED produces less light, which is why an inexpensive auxiliary light seems extremely bright for two minutes and then dims. The entire LOBOO L series features automatic thermal control that reduces power when the temperature rises too high, preferring less light to a burned-out LED. Practical mounting consequence: do not recess the lights in a cavity without airflow.

Regarding vibrations: auxiliary lights do not break because of the light; they break because of shaking. The entire LOBOO range features CNC-machined aluminum-alloy housings, while the DENALI DL series uses 4 mm painted-steel brackets with a declared rating of 21 grms. The weak point is almost always the mounting hardware: LOBOO specifies threadlocker, precise torque values (10 N·m for M6 bolts and 18 N·m for the M8 bolts on the L7S), and rechecking after the first few miles. This is not bureaucracy: a bolt that loosens on a washboard road can take the light off in half an hour.

Brackets, collars, and tube diameters

The light is almost always universal. What changes from one motorcycle to another is how you attach it.

LOBOO includes collars for 22, 25, and 28 mm tubes as standard. For 32 and 38 mm tubes, the collars are sold separately. Before ordering, measure the diameter at the exact point where you want to mount the light: an engine guard can change section along its length.

If you often remove and reinstall the lights, the LOBOO Q7 quick-release mount for €93.33 solves the problem and is compatible with the L7S, L11, L16, and L18S. For dedicated installation, Endurrad offers mounts and brackets for auxiliary lights for the most popular platforms.

LOBOO auxiliary lights: the complete range

Eight models, all sold in pairs with wiring included. LOBOO's philosophy is to put everything into the product: an approved low beam, adjustment dial, flashing modes, and electronic protection. Buy it once and it works.

Best value for money

LOBOO L7S

261,00 € 290,00 €

In brief. It is the smartest entry point in the category. ECE R149.00 Class C-approved pair, certificate E57*149R00/06*1142, with both low and high beams approved and the marking stamped on the housing. 15,000 lumens total, eight intensity levels from the dial, three flashing modes that can be paired with the horn, IP68, CNC-machined aluminum housing, and glass lens. Yellow lens cover included: white 6000 K or yellow 3000 K.

Limitations. Yellow is produced with a filter, so there is some loss of output, rather than by varying the LED as on the L16 and L18S. At 150 W at full power, the system's electrical headroom must be checked. The manufacturer does not state the packaged weight and dimensions.

When to choose it. If you want a complete, functioning approved system costing less than €270, and you do not need variable color temperature or DRL. It is the right choice for most motorcyclists.

See the LOBOO L7S on Endurrad →

The only one with an integrated DRL

LOBOO L7X

261,00 € 290,00 €

In brief. Same price as the L7S, different function. Two true beams with a dedicated low-beam lens, 12,000 lumens per pair across eight levels, 120 W maximum power consumption, IP67, CNC-machined aluminum. Its exclusive feature is the bicolor white/amber DRL synchronized with the original turn signals: no other light in the range offers it.

Limitations. ECE certificate E57*149R00/06*1142 covers the L7S and L7 variants, but not the L7X: it is a different type, and the specific document has been requested from LOBOO. Until it is available, this light must not be described as approved. IP67 instead of IP68.

When to choose it. If your priority is visibility to other road users, you ride extensively in urban areas and on busy roads outside urban areas, and approval is not an immediate requirement for you.

See the LOBOO L7X on Endurrad →

ECE approved · 8 levels

LOBOO L11

454,50 € 505,00 €

In brief. ECE-approved pair ECE E57*149R00/06*1186 under UN Regulation R149.00, with both low and high beams approved. 15,000 lumens, eight levels controlled by the ring, three warning-flash modes, IP68 with automatic adjustment for heat protection, and a CNC-machined aluminium housing. Compatible with the Q7 quick-release mount and the LC081 CAN-Bus controller for BMW.

Limitations. At the same stated lumen output, it costs €193.50 more than the L7S. The manufacturer does not publish the wattage, colour temperature, dimensions, or weight: these are the most significant gaps in the range.

When to choose it. If you want a more substantial housing than the L7 and integration with the BMW Multi-Controller, but do not need the L16’s variable colour temperature.

See the LOBOO L11 on Endurrad →

Independent optics

LOBOO L12T

606,90 € 673,81 €

In brief. It is the only model in the range with physically independent lenses and light sources for low and high beam: four LEDs per light, with two separate optical groups. ECE E57*149R00/06*1143 Class C approval, also covering the L12, L12U, L12Q, and L12H variants. 15,200 lumens, eight levels, 80 W in low beam and 150 W with both beams, IP68, three mounting holes on the housing, and a multi-axis rotating bracket.

Limitations. It costs €3.90 more than the L16, which offers more lumens and variable colour. It is a pricing anomaly and should be stated: on paper, the L16 outperforms it in almost every respect.

When to choose it. If you specifically value the sharp low-beam cutoff produced by dedicated optics rather than a shared reflector. It is a real technical reason, but the only one that justifies this price.

See the LOBOO L12T on Endurrad →

Best for Adventure Touring

LOBOO L16

603,00 € 670,00 €

In brief. This is where the range steps up. ECE E57*149R00/06*1187 Class B approval for right-hand traffic, also covering the L16T, L16Pro, L16S, L16Q, and L16K. Five LEDs per light, 5,000–16,800 lm in low beam and 5,800–19,000 lm with both beams, 50–168 W and 58–190 W. The feature that makes the difference: variable colour temperature from 3000 to 6000 K using the same ring, without filters, across eight levels. Ø 97.9 mm, depth 88.5 mm, height 139.3 mm with bracket. IP68.

Limitations. 190 W is a substantial load. The L16 user manual is not yet available, so the exact contents of the package and the collars actually included remain to be confirmed.

When to choose it. If you really travel, encounter variable weather conditions, and want to be able to switch from white to yellow while riding. At this price, it is the best compromise in the range.

See the LOBOO L16 on Endurrad →

The top of the range

LOBOO L18S

895,50 € 995,00 €

In brief. The top of the range. ECE E57*149R00/08*1206 Class B approval, issued on February 26, 2025, based on test report ATS-SM-IR-149-11036, extended to the L18, L18Pro, L18Q, and L18D variants. Six LEDs per light with a cup reflector, 5,000–16,500 lm on low beam and 6,500–21,000 lm with both beams, 50–165 W and 65–210 W. Eight brightness levels and eight color-temperature levels from the same dial. Overtaking flash mode in addition to the three warning modes. Ø 108.4 mm, depth 86.5 mm, height 154.8 mm. IP68.

Limitations. 210 W is the highest load in the range and must be checked carefully. The declared output is 21,000 lm in the brochure, but some documents report 23,000: we used the more conservative figure. It is also the largest light.

When to choose it. If you ride many nighttime kilometers on unlit roads and want the best available without compromise, with an electrical system that can handle it.

See the LOBOO L18S on Endurrad →

Dedicated CFMOTO kit

LOBOO L7 for CFMOTO 800MT

306,00 € 340,00 €

In brief. Specific kit for CFMOTO 800MT from 2021, covered by the same ECE E57*149R00/06*1142 Class C certification as the L7S. Up to 15,000 lm declared, 6500 K white and 3000 K yellow with lens covers, IP68, thermal and reverse-polarity protection. The real advantage: it is controlled by the motorcycle's original fog-light switch, without adding handlebar controls.

Limitations. It is not universal: outside the 800MT, it makes no sense. Wattage, dimensions, and weight are not declared.

When to choose it. If you have a CFMOTO 800MT and want clean mounting integrated with the original controls.

See the kit for CFMOTO 800MT →

Dedicated VOGE kit

LOBOO L7 for VOGE DS525X

297,90 € 331,00 €

In brief. Kit for VOGE DS525X from 2023, with the same ECE R149.00 Class C certification, up to 15,000 lm, 6500 K white and 3000 K yellow, IP68, controlled by the original fog-light switch. The kit includes the LOBOO switch.

Limitations. Compatibility with the DS900X is listed as to be confirmed in the technical documentation: write to us before ordering if you have that model. Wattage and dimensions are not declared.

When to choose it. If you have a VOGE DS525X and want the same optical quality as the L7S with dedicated mounting.

See the kit for VOGE DS525X →

The complete range is collected in the LOBOO lighting collection, with more details in the LOBOO auxiliary lights guide.

DENALI lights: the complete range

The opposite philosophy. DENALI sells components that work together: the light, the wiring, and the controller. It costs more to build the complete system, but that system grows with the motorcycle and integrates functions that LOBOO does not have. Pay attention to the packaging: the D series is sold individually, while the DL series is available both individually and as a pair.

DL DataDim series: the range to compare with LOBOO

It is the newest line and the one with the most complete and verifiable specifications. The entire range states ECE R149 driving beam certification, IP68 and IP69K, 6000 K, 9-32 V DC voltage, EMC compliance with R10, CISPR 25, CE, and UKCA. DrySeal construction robotically seals the lens and uses internal potting at the cable entry. The lenses are not interchangeable: the beam is selected at purchase.

Best for visibility

DENALI DL-2

€203.00 per pair €106.00 each

The smallest in the range: 3x2-inch pod, 2 LEDs, 16 W and 1,700 lm per light, 3,400 lm per pair. It is the only model in the range with a visibility beam: a wide flood at night, designed to appear as bright as possible to other drivers during the day.

Limitations. This is not a long-range light: do not expect depth. When to choose it: commuting, small motorcycles, or as the lower pair in a two-level setup on a maxi enduro.

View the DL-2 pair →

The all-rounder of the range

DENALI DL-4

€267.00 per pair €138.00 each

3x3-inch pod, 4 LEDs, 32 W and 3,400 lm per light, 6,800 lm per pair, hybrid beam. DENALI itself identifies it as the main light for small and medium-sized motorcycles, and it is compact enough to fit in a low position even on a large Adventure bike.

Limitations. Without wiring and a controller, it remains a component, not a system. When to choose it: if you want a balanced beam without going oversized, or as a pair to combine with a more powerful set.

View the DL-4 pair →

Low profile, high output

DENALI DL-6

€363.00 per pair €187.00 each

Rectangular 4.5x3-inch pod, 6 LEDs, 48 W and 5,100 lm per light, 10,200 lm per pair. The rectangular profile makes it one of the most discreet over-5,000-lumen lights to mount, and DENALI recommends it as the main light for medium-to-large motorcycles.

Limitations. The rectangular shape does not suit every aesthetic. When to choose it: if you want plenty of light without two large round lights visible on the front.

View the DL-6 pair →

The most powerful DENALI in the catalog

DENALI DL-9

€459.00 per pair €235.00 each

4.5 x 4.5-inch square pod and 2 inches deep, 9 LEDs, 72 W and 7,650 lm per light, 15,300 lm for the pair. Claimed range of 421 metres per light and 560 as a pair, 110-metre width. IP68 and IP69K, 6000 K, ECE R149 driving beam.

Limitations. The square housing is large and suits only large adventure motorcycles. No approved low beam: it is an auxiliary high beam. When to choose it: if you want the maximum amount of DENALI light and have or want a CANsmart.

See the DL-9 pair →

D and S series: individually sold lights

These are the classic lines. They are sold individually and configured with separate lenses and wiring harnesses. On the D2, D3, D4 and DM, the TriOptic system includes one mounted spot lens and one included flood lens.

The most compact

DENALI DM

€165.00 each

2,190 lm for the pair concentrated in a tiny optic designed to be highly conspicuous. 120-metre spot for the pair, with the included flood lenses, E-Mark certified, providing approximately 45 metres of width. When to choose it: when space is extremely limited and visibility is the primary objective.

See the DENALI DM →

More light per euro

DENALI S4

€171.00 each

6,132 lm for the pair, using the same LEDs as the D series but with a one-piece optic and sealed lens to reduce costs. Fixed hybrid beam with two flood optics and two spot optics. Limitations: DENALI does not state a certification for this model, and the lens is not replaceable. When to choose it: if you want the most lumens per euro in the DENALI range and do not need certification.

See the DENALI S4 →

TriOptic · compact

DENALI D2

€219.00 each

2,190 lm for the pair from one 10 W Cree LED per light. The mounted spot lenses project approximately 160 metres, while the included flood lenses create a beam approximately 50 metres wide. This is the light designed to balance nighttime range and daytime conspicuity. When to choose it: as the lower pair in a two-level setup, or on motorcycles where the D4 would be too much.

See the DENALI D2 →

The most certified

DENALI D3

€248.00 each

Ø 90 mm x 65 mm, three 11 W Cree XP-P LEDs, 36 W power consumption, 2,100 lm per light and 4,200 for the pair, IP67, DataDim. It is the only model in the range with dual certification: SAE/DOT J581 hybrid lens and ECE R112, spot lens ECE-only because it is too powerful for American regulations. Both included.

When to choose it: if you want to be able to choose the lens after purchase and you are interested in documented beam certification.

See the DENALI D3 →

Dedicated fog light

DENALI D3 fog light

€235 per unit

Same housing as the D3 driving light, but with four 11 W Cree XP-P LEDs, 40 W power draw, 2,800 lm per light and 5,600 per pair, IP67, DataDim. Optics designed for a low, wide beam—the kind that is genuinely useful in fog.

Limitations: the specific fog-light homologation does not appear to be declared in verifiable form. When to choose it: if you often ride in the Po Valley in winter and want a second layer of light below the low beam.

See the D3 fog light →

Pure spot

DENALI DR1

€240 per unit

The classic round light with a deep reflector and clear lens, built around a single 10 W Cree LED for a very narrow beam of around 10 degrees. Powder-coated aluminium housing, IP68.

Limitations: the catalogue figure of 2,190 lm does not appear to be published by the manufacturer in verifiable form. The very narrow beam is unusable on its own. When to choose it: as a range-only light to pair with a set of flood lights.

See the DENALI DR1 →

TriOptic · the most versatile

DENALI D4

€291 per unit

Four Cree XPL-HI LEDs provide 8,760 lm per pair. The fitted hybrid lens combines two elliptical flood optics and two spot optics in the same housing: a very wide close-range flood and a central spot in a single unit. The included spot lenses project approximately 245 metres and carry E-Mark certification.

Limitations: DENALI does not publish verifiable IP and wattage specifications for this model. When to choose it: if you want to build a custom setup and would like to be able to change the optic according to the season.

See the DENALI D4 →

D-series maximum range

DENALI D7

€395 per unit

Seven 10 W LEDs behind a single-piece optic that produces a full spot beam with a claimed range of over 366 metres at 1 lux. Ø 111.76 mm, depth 73.66 mm, 816.67 g, IP67, DataDim, E-Mark-approved spot lens.

Limitations. It is the most expensive DENALI light per unit, and the manufacturer's official pages are inconsistent about the output, listed as 7,665 lm either per pair or per single pod: we report the value for the pair. A complete setup with two units and wiring exceeds €800. When to choose it: if your absolute priority is distance and you are building a DENALI system.

See the DENALI D7 →

Complete DENALI kits for BMW GS

If you have a BMW GS and want to skip the entire configuration process, DENALI sells packages that include lights, dedicated mounts, and a CANsmart controller under a single product code. It is the most expensive and simplest option.

The top of the range is the D7 PRO, which in the Endurrad catalog is available only in kits: seven 14 W Cree XML3 LEDs per pod, 98 W power consumption, 11,900 raw lumens per pod, a claimed 380-meter spot beam and 75-meter flood beam, IP68 and IP69K, and a spot lens homologated to E-Mark ECE R112. It has a dual independent circuit that lets you control the central optic separately as a DRL or as a full-power flood beam, and make it flash in sync with the turn signals.

The available packages range from €1,006.00 (R 1250 GS with D4 and CANsmart) to €1,585.00 (R 1300 GS Adventure with D7 PRO). In between: R 1250 GS with D7 at €1,236.00, R 1250 GS ADV with D7 at €1,302.00, R 1300 GS with D7 PRO at €1,483.00, R 1250 GS with D7 PRO at €1,491.00, and R 1250 GS ADV with D7 PRO at €1,582.00.

The full range is in the DENALI Electronics LED lighting collection, which also includes SoundBomb horns, CANsmart control units, wiring, and dedicated mounts.

LOBOO vs DENALI lights: which should you choose?

There is no universal winner, and anyone who tells you otherwise has not looked at the certificates. These are two product philosophies built around two different problems.

LOBOO may be preferable if...

• You want a homologated low beam, not just an auxiliary high beam, so it provides useful light even when passing oncoming traffic.
• You want a single purchase that includes everything: pair, wiring, controls, and certificate in the same box.
• Are you interested in variable color temperature adjusted via the dial, which DENALI does not offer on any model?
• You want the homologation document downloadable before purchase, not a generic statement.
• Budget matters: €261.00 for a complete, homologated pair has no equivalent in the comparison.

DENALI may be preferable if...

• You are building a layered system with multiple pairs of lights serving different functions, and you want to control them independently.
• You want interchangeable lenses to change the beam or color depending on the season (D series with TriOptic).
• You have or want a CANsmart and are interested in features such as strobing with the horn, turn-signal cancellation, an electronic fuse, and a voltmeter.
• You need the highest available protection rating: IP68 and IP69K on the DL series.
• You want a single kit for a BMW GS without having to choose anything, and the budget allows it.

The honest price comparison. A LOBOO L7S costs €261.00 and arrives ready to use. A DENALI D7 costs €395.00 per light: two lights plus the wiring harness come to approximately €826.00. A pair of DENALI DL-9 lights costs €459.00 plus the wiring harness, and with 15,300 lm, it is the DENALI closest to the LOBOO in terms of light-to-price ratio. If the criterion is “how much do I spend to have two lights turned on and controllable,” LOBOO wins. If the criterion is “how much can I expand the system,” DENALI wins.

Direct comparisons between models

LOBOO L7S vs L7X: homologation or DRL?

The price is the same, €261.00, and the choice comes down to a single question. The L7S has 15,000 lm, IP68, and an ECE certificate already available. The L7X has 12,000 lm, IP67, no certificate published yet, but a two-color DRL synchronized with the turn signals.

Buy the L7S if you want more light and the documentary certainty of homologation. Prefer the L7X if your main goal is to be seen and the DRL matters more to you than 3,000 lumens and a certificate that does not currently exist.

LOBOO L7S vs L11

Both claim 15,000 lm, both are R149.00 homologated, and both have eight levels and IP68. The price difference is 193,50 €. The L11 has a more substantial body and a less complete technical specification: wattage, color temperature, and dimensions are not published.

Buy the L7S if you are looking at the performance-to-price ratio: on paper, it delivers the same for less than half the price. Prefer the L11 if you have seen both in person and are convinced by its construction.

LOBOO L11 vs L12T

The L12T adds 200 lumens and, above all, physically independent optics for low beam and high beam: four LEDs per light and two separate optical groups, unlike the L11’s shared architecture. It also specifies wattage (80/150), materials, and tightening torques, where the L11 is silent. It costs €152.40 more.

Buy the L12T if low-beam cutoff quality matters to you. Choose the L11 if that detail doesn't make a difference to you and you want to save money.

LOBOO L12T vs L16: why the more expensive one isn't better

This is the most awkward comparison in the catalog, and it should be stated plainly. The L16 costs €3.90 less than the L12T and offers more lumens (19,000 versus 15,200), a higher approval class (B versus C), five LEDs per light versus four, and above all variable 3000-6000 K color temperature without filters, which the L12T does not have.

Buy the L16 in almost every case. Choose the L12T only if you specifically want separate lenses and light sources for the two beams: it is the only real technical argument in its favor, because it produces the low-beam cutoff from a dedicated optic rather than a shared reflector.

LOBOO L16 vs L18S

The L18S adds 2,000 lumens (21,000 versus 19,000), one more LED per light (six versus five), a cup reflector for more uniform distribution, and an overtaking-flash mode. It costs €292.50 more and draws 20 W more at maximum (210 versus 190). Both have eight-level variable color temperature and Class B.

Buy the L16 if you're looking for the best compromise: the lumen difference is 10%, while the price difference is 48%. Choose the L18S if you drive a lot at night on unlit roads and want the top of the range.

DENALI D4 vs D7

The D4 claims 8,760 lm per pair with a hybrid beam that combines an elliptical flood and a spot in the same lens, and it is the most versatile thanks to the TriOptic. The D7 claims 7,665 lm per pair but concentrates it in a pure spot reaching over 366 meters, making it deeper and narrower. The D7 costs €104.00 more per unit.

Buy the D4 if you want an all-round light and the ability to change the optics. Choose the D7 if your problem is seeing far on open roads and you already have a wide-beam light source.

DENALI D series vs DL series

The DL series is newer, has more complete and verifiable specifications, IP68 and IP69K versus IP67, declared ECE R149 driving beam certification across the entire range, and is also available as a pair. It costs less for the same light output: the DL-9 delivers 15,300 lm per pair at €459.00, while two D7s deliver 7,665 lm at €790.00.

Buy the DL series if you're starting from scratch. Choose the D series if you need the TriOptic's interchangeable lenses, which the DL series does not have.

LOBOO L7S vs DENALI DL-9

The most significant comparison between the two worlds, because the two products have comparable light output: 15,000 lm versus 15,300.

The L7S costs €261.00, comes as a pair with wiring and bezel, and is approved with both low beam and high beam. The DL-9 costs €459.00 per pair, requires separate wiring, is certified only as an auxiliary high beam, but has IP68 and IP69K protection, a claimed range of 560 meters per pair, and native integration with CANsmart and DialDim.

Buy the L7S if you want the lowest total cost and an approved low beam. Choose the DL-9 if you are building a DENALI system, want the highest environmental resistance, and are interested in maximum range.

Ranking: the best motorcycle auxiliary lights of 2026

Each category is assigned only where verified data supports it. Some categories you would find in other rankings are not included here because the catalog does not support them.

Unassigned categories. We have not assigned a “best for off-road” category because no product in the catalog is specifically designed or certified for off-road use, nor a “best for rain” category because no verifiable data allows the models to be ranked by that criterion.

Which auxiliary lights to choose based on use

Adventure touring and long trips

You need adaptable light more than maximum light, because you encounter everything on a trip. The L16 is the most complete answer: 19,000 lumens when needed, reduced power when following a car, and yellow light in the rain. Alternatively, the L7S with the yellow lens cover, it handles the same situations at one-third the cost, with a manual changeover instead of using the ring.

Night riding on unlit roads

Here, depth and uniformity matter. L18S for its output and bowl reflector, DL-9 if you prefer the DENALI approach and are interested in the stated 560-meter range as a pair. Always adjust the beam before your first serious trip: more poorly aimed light is less effective than less light aimed correctly.

Mountain roads and slow corners

A narrow beam is counterproductive: it lights up empty space in corners. A broad flood component is better, so choose the DL-6 or DL-4 as a pair, or the LOBOO lights in low-beam mode, which by design have a wider, more controlled distribution.

Mixed road and dirt riding

L7S if you're looking for the best value, DL-9 if weather resistance is your priority: IP69K means resistance to pressure washing, which is no theory after a day in the mud. In both cases, the bracket matters as much as the light, and the Q7 quick-release mount lets you remove them when you leave the motorcycle.

Urban commuting

You don't need 20,000 lumens in the city; you need shape and visibility. DL-2 as a pair for €203.00, or L7X if you also want the DRL to flash with the turn signals. In urban areas, the feature that saves you is being noticed at intersections, not lighting up 400 meters ahead.

Frequent rain and fog

The D3 fog light is the only product in the catalog with optics specifically designed for this purpose, but its approval as a fog light is not stated, as far as we can tell. Alternatively, running L16 or L18S at around 3000 K reduces backscatter without adding a third light, and they remain approved.

One safety clarification is worth stating explicitly: no auxiliary light guarantees safety. Additional lighting, when installed and adjusted correctly, can help improve the perception of obstacles and make the vehicle more visible. It does not compensate for inappropriate speeds or riding conditions beyond your limits.

Auxiliary lights for your motorcycle: what changes from model to model

Remember the principle: the light is universal, the mount is not. These sections explain the selection criteria for each platform; they do not claim compatibility. For definitive confirmation, always check the product page or contact us.

Auxiliary lights for BMW GS: R 1300 GS, R 1250 GS, R 1200 GS

It is the best-supported platform in the catalog, and the only one with a genuine choice between two complete ecosystems.

LOBOO route: any light from the L series plus the LC081 CAN-Bus controller at €93.50, which lets you control the lights from the original Multi-Controller. Pay attention to the connector: 4-pin cable for the R 1200 GS, R 1250 GS, and K 1600; 5-pin for the R 1300 GS and GS Adventure; 8-pin for the F 750, F 800, F 850, F 900 GS, and F 900 XR. For mounting, there is the auxiliary light mount for the R 1300 GS at €22.50 and the mount for the R 1250 GS Adventure at €45.00.

DENALI route: complete kits with CANsmart, from €1,006.00 to €1,585.00 depending on the model and lights. No configuration required, at three times the cost.

Auxiliary lights for Honda Africa Twin

On a CRF1100L, the main constraints are the space on the crash bars and electrical management, because this is a motorcycle on which many accessories are fitted. LOBOO lights in the L series work with the standard 22, 25, and 28 mm clamps. If you already have power-hungry accessories, the 150 W L7S is a more cautious choice than the 210 W L18S.

Auxiliary lights for Yamaha Ténéré 700

A lightweight motorcycle with a less generous electrical system than a large-displacement twin-cylinder maxi enduro. Here, the sensible choice is to go for the lower-consumption models: L7S or DL-4 as a pair. Before ordering an L16 or an L18S, check the alternator's available capacity.

Auxiliary lights for KTM Adventure

On the 790 and 1290, the most commonly used mounting position is the crash bar. Endurrad offers the auxiliary light mount for the KTM 790 Adventure and the mount for the KTM 1290 Super Adventure R, both priced at €62.00. On the headlight, the 1290 can also handle the higher-consumption models without any problems.

Auxiliary lights for Ducati Multistrada and DesertX

These are platforms where aesthetics matter as much as function. The rectangular profile of the DL-6 integrates better than the large round one, and the DL series has the highest protection rating. Always check the available space: on these motorcycles, the front end is more crowded than it appears.

Auxiliary lights for Triumph Tiger

The general criteria still apply: if you travel a lot, the L16’s variable color temperature is the feature you will notice most. If you are looking for discretion, the DENALI DL series has the lowest profile.

Auxiliary lights for CFMOTO 800MT and VOGE DS525X

These are the two platforms for which a dedicated kit is available: the LOBOO L7 for CFMOTO 800MT at €306.00 and the LOBOO L7 for VOGE DS525X at €297.90, both operated by the original fog-light switch. If you have one of these two motorcycles, they are by far the cleanest choice.

How to install and adjust motorcycle auxiliary lights correctly

How to adjust auxiliary lights without dazzling others

This is the most important check—and the one most often skipped. More light does not automatically mean better lighting: it means greater responsibility.

Place the motorcycle on level ground facing a wall, several metres away, with the rider’s weight on the seat. Mark the height of the centre of the auxiliary lights on the wall. The centre of the beam must fall below that line: the light should point towards the road, not the horizon. Then check it on the road at night, preferably with someone accompanying you who can watch the motorcycle approach from the opposite direction.

This governs the overlap with the original headlight: the auxiliary lights must complement the dipped beam, not create a second disconnected pool of light. If you see a very bright halo in front of the wheel, the beam is too low and your pupil constricts, making it harder to see into the distance. This is the opposite of what you were trying to achieve.

Approval concerns the device. The installation and use conditions on your vehicle remain subject to the Highway Code. If you are not familiar with electrical systems, have the installation carried out by a qualified technician.

Approved motorcycle auxiliary lights: what you really need to know

This is the topic on which the most inaccurate information circulates. Let’s put it in order, without offering legal interpretations beyond our remit.

Three different things that are often confused

• Device approval. This certifies that the product, having undergone laboratory testing, complies with the photometric limits of a regulation. It has a number, an issuing body, and a test report.
• Installation. This concerns where and how you mount the device on the vehicle: position, height, symmetry, number of devices, and electrical connection.
• Use. This concerns when you can switch it on and under what conditions. It is governed by the Highway Code, not by the product certificate.

An approved light that is installed or used incorrectly remains a problem. A non-approved light does not become compliant simply because it is installed correctly. These are two independent aspects.

Class B and Class C: what changes

The certificates for LOBOO auxiliary lights indicate the class under UN Regulation R149.00. In the Endurrad catalog: Class C for the L7S, L7 variants, and L12T; Class B for the L16 and L18S, with right-hand traffic specified. The classes correspond to different photometric requirements for the dipped-beam pattern set out in the regulation.

Downloadable certificates: the only verification that matters

This is the practical difference between saying “approved” and proving it. For LOBOO auxiliary lights sold on Endurrad, the certificate is downloadable as a PDF directly from the product page, including the number, issuing body, and test report:

For DENALI, the stated certification applies to the auxiliary high-beam pattern: ECE R112 driving beam on the D3, D4, D7, and D7 PRO, and ECE R149 driving beam across the entire DL series. On the D2 and DM, the E-Mark certification is stated for the included flood lens. We have not found a verifiable declared approval for the S4 and DR1.

The brand must be stamped on the light housing. If it is not there, the certificate does not apply to that unit. Always ask for the number, never just the word.

10 mistakes to avoid when buying motorcycle auxiliary lights

• 1. Choosing based solely on lumens. It is the most heavily advertised figure and the least informative. Always check whether it is stated per light or per pair, and whether it refers to effective lumens or raw lumens.
• 2. Ignoring the beam type. Two pairs with identical lumen ratings can give you completely opposite experiences. First ask yourself whether your problem is seeing far or seeing wide: they are two different purchases.
• 3. Buying unnecessary power. If you mainly commute in the city, 21,000 lumens is money wasted and an electrical load you do not need. A well-aimed pair producing 3,400 lumens is more useful.
• 4. Not checking power consumption. This is the mistake that can leave you stranded. Add up the auxiliary lights, heated grips, heated jacket, and electronic devices, then compare the total with the alternator’s available surplus before ordering.
• 5. Confusing “approved” with “approved for what.” An approved auxiliary high beam and an approved low beam are not the same thing. If you do not ask for the certificate number and class, you have verified nothing.
• 6. Not checking what is in the box. A price of €165.00 that seems excellent may be for a single unit without wiring: two lights and a wiring harness bring the total above €370.00.
• 7. Using inadequate brackets. Auxiliary lights fail because of vibration, not use. An undersized mount or a collar with the wrong diameter is a delayed failure. Measure the tube at the exact mounting point.
• 8. Mounting them too high. This increases range and the risk of dazzling oncoming traffic. Above the height of the original headlight is almost always the wrong choice.
• 9. Not adjusting the beam. This is the most common mistake of all, and it costs nothing to avoid. Twenty minutes in front of a wall can change the result more than a €200 difference in the product.
• 10. Buying based solely on price. An inexpensive system with poor wiring and non-weatherproof connectors becomes an electrical problem on a motorcycle already loaded with accessories. The point where these products almost always fail is where the cable enters the light housing, not the LED.

Conclusion: what I would buy based on how I use my motorcycle

No ranking can replace the right question, which is not “what is the best auxiliary light?” but “what is my problem?”

If you’re an adventure traveller and spend weeks in the saddle crossing different climates and surfaces, the LOBOO L16 is the most rational choice: 19,000 lumens, Class B approval, and the ability to switch from white to yellow with your thumb while riding, without stopping or fitting filters. It costs less than the L12T and does more.

If you’re a touring motorcyclist who makes long road trips with a few nights on the move, the LOBOO L7S solves the problem at €261.00. Pair, wiring harness, bezel, certificate: nothing is missing, and the yellow lens cover handles difficult days.

If you primarily use the motorcycle on the road, in mixed urban and non-urban settings, your main concern is being seen rather than seeing. The pair of DENALI DL-2 lights at €203.00 or the LOBOO L7X with DRL synchronized with the indicators are more useful than an oversized system.

If you often ride at night on unlit main and secondary roads, the LOBOO L18S is the best available, provided you verify that the system can handle 210 W. Alternatively, the pair of DENALI DL-9 lights at €459.00 offers a claimed range of 560 meters with the highest environmental protection rating in the comparison.

If you're looking for the best value for money without compromising on type approval, the L7S is the answer, and there are no close alternatives in the catalog.

If you want advanced features and are building a system that will grow over time, DENALI is the way to go: the DL series for the light-to-price ratio, DialDim or CANsmart for control, and the option to add a second pair with a different function without redoing anything.

Whatever you choose, the variable that matters most isn't in the table: it's twenty minutes spent adjusting the beam in front of a wall. That changes the result more than a €300 difference in the product.