Choosing the auxiliary lights is the easy part. The problem comes afterward, when you look for a place to mount them: the fairing offers no attachment points, and the improvised solution is universal clamps and zip ties.
It works for two hundred kilometers. Then vibrations make the clamp rotate around the tube, the beam points elsewhere, and you notice it at night.
The problem is not a weak bracket; it is the type of anchoring.
This is the difference that determines everything, and almost no one explains it.
A universal clamp clamps around the tube: it holds through friction. Friction deteriorates because high-frequency vibrations work precisely against it, and no tightening torque solves this permanently—in fact, tightening harder on a thin-walled tube makes it oval.
A dedicated mount anchors to a hole. It replaces a bolt already present on the motorcycle or attaches to anchor points provided by the manufacturer. The light is mechanically secured and cannot rotate, because there is nothing around which it can rotate.
It is the same difference as resting something in place versus screwing it down. If you have already had to realign your lights after a trip, this was the problem.
The three possible positions, and what changes

On the crash bars
This is the lowest and most protected position: in a fall, the light sits behind the bar, not in front of it. The beam starts low, so it illuminates the road edge and nearby dips well, but covers less distance.
The CWJ082 mount for the R 1200 and R 1250 GS Adventure is a clear example of how it should be done: two Ø 25 mm through spacers made of CNC-machined aluminum, mounted on the original BMW crash bar in place of the stock bolt. It does not clamp anything; it anchors to the hole. Once removed, the bar returns exactly to its original condition. It costs €45.
Below the headlight assembly
This is the position with the best projection angle for night riding: the beam starts at headlight height and reaches far ahead. It is also the most exposed in a frontal crash.
The CDZJ251 bracket for the KTM 1290 Super Adventure R works like this: SUS304 stainless steel with a black sandblasted electrostatic granular finish—which does not chip like paint—515 g and approximately 429 mm wide, adjustable to correct the angle after installation. €62.
Watch out for a detail that can cost you a return: the manufacturer specifies it for the Super Adventure R from 2022 onward. The S version is not among the listed models.
On a dedicated bar beneath the headlight
It's the solution for motorcycles where there is no convenient mounting point. Instead of looking for a mount, it creates one: a steel crossbar that provides a tube of the right size.
The CWJ221 bracket for the KTM 790 Adventure and 790 Adventure R provides a Ø 22 mm bar immediately below the headlight, made of 304 stainless steel, secured to the motorcycle's existing mounting points without drilling. The package also includes an adapter bracket, and that's the detail that broadens compatibility: you can mount both auxiliary lights with a 22 mm clamp and lights that attach with screws. Compatibility is stated for 2019 to 2022. €114.90.
Why Ø 22 mm keeps appearing
It's no coincidence: 22 mm is the standard size used by almost all auxiliary light manufacturers. If your bracket provides a 22 mm tube, the clamp on the auxiliary light you buy two years from now will fit it.
That's why, with equal quality, a bracket that provides a standard bar is worth more than one that accepts only one type of mount: it doesn't tie you to the brand of auxiliary lights you chose today.
The control: the part everyone forgets

Once the auxiliary lights are installed, they still need to be switched on. An added handlebar switch forces you to look for the button or shift your grip—and at night, or in difficult conditions, that's the worst time to do it.
The CLU081 clutch lever moves the control to where your hand already is: the switch is built into the lever body, with the semi-recessed ring reachable by your thumb without letting go of the handlebar. It isn't added to the handlebar; it replaces the stock lever.
With the key in ACC, the ring turns on the low beam, then the high and low beams together; with the light on, rotate it to scroll through eight brightness levels, and press while rotating to switch from white to yellow light. Double-clicking opens three emergency modes, and a separate button activates the passing light.
The package contains two interchangeable levers, a short one measuring 200.7 mm and a long one measuring 218 mm, with travel adjustable to four positions. CNC-machined anodized aluminum body, weighing 109 g with the short lever. Installation requires no drilling or additional hardware: the hardware and knob are transferred from the original lever. €117.
Two details that the manufacturer states explicitly. The CLU081 is specified for the auxiliary light L18, and the auxiliary light is not included. Installation involves a control on the handlebars, so if you're not familiar with this kind of work, have it done by a technician.
BMW covers the R 1200 and R 1250 in the GS, GS Adventure, RT, RS, and R versions, plus the entire K 1600 series.
Adjustment is done in the dark
This is the final mistake, and almost everyone makes it: aiming the beam in the garage with the light on while looking at the wall. Then the first nighttime ride reveals that the lights illuminate the guardrail or dazzle oncoming traffic.
Adjustment should be done in the dark, with the motorcycle in riding position and you seated, preferably on a road you know. All three brackets described above are adjustable for this very reason: you can correct the angle afterward without bending anything.
And it is worth remembering that a poorly aimed auxiliary light is also a problem for oncoming traffic, not just for you.
The order in which to buy them
- The mount for your motorcycle — it is the part that determines where the lights will end up and whether they will remain aligned.
- The lights, chosen based on the lumen output and the mounting method provided by the bracket.
- The wiring and control, which no bracket ever includes.
None of the mounts described includes lights, wiring, relays, or controls: they are the mechanical base, and this should be stated because it is one of the most common surprises when opening the package.
Frequently asked questions
Why do lights mounted with universal collars become misaligned?
Because a collar grips around the tube through friction, and vibrations reduce that friction. A dedicated mount is instead anchored to a hole, replacing an existing bolt: the light is mechanically secured and cannot rotate.
Is it better to mount the auxiliary lights on the crash bars or under the headlight?
On the crash bars, the light is better protected in a fall and illuminates the edge of the road well. Under the headlight assembly, the projection angle is better for seeing farther, but the position is more exposed.
What diameter should the mounts for the lights have?
The standard diameter for auxiliary light clamps is 22 mm. A bracket that provides a 22 mm tube remains compatible with most lights on the market.
Do auxiliary light mounts include the lights?
No. The mounts are only the mechanical base: lights, wiring, relays, and controls are purchased separately.
Do you need to drill the motorcycle to install an auxiliary light mount?
No, not with dedicated mounts. They attach to existing mounting points or replace existing bolts, and installation is reversible.
How do you control the auxiliary lights without adding switches to the handlebars?
With a clutch lever that integrates the switch into its body: it replaces the stock lever and places the ring under your thumb, without taking your hand off the handlebars.
When should the auxiliary lights be aimed?
In the dark, with the motorcycle in riding position and the rider seated. Adjusting them in the garage while aiming at a wall almost always results in a beam that is too high or too far to the side.
If you cannot find a mount for your motorcycle, write to us with the make, model, and year: we will check availability and the mounting method before you order.


























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Crash bars: how to protect them and what you can mount on them