Attachment is made to the points already present on the frame: no cutting, drilling, or welding. However, the manual requires removing the original screws, clips, and decorative plate in the area above the fork first; they are then put back in place.

It is an extra step compared with other crash bars, but everything remains reversible: once the bar is removed, the DesertX returns exactly to how it was.

On the upper part of the LOBOO structure, there are mounting points for auxiliary spotlights: the manufacturer's images show two spotlights mounted on either side of the radiator, at the right height to illuminate without dazzling oncoming traffic.

The spotlights and their brackets are not included. The exact hole diameter is not published: if you have already chosen yours, write to us and we will verify the measurement on the part before you place your order.

304 stainless steel with a Ø 25 mm tube and a 2 mm wall thickness. The material is the same beneath and above the surface treatment, so a scratch that removes the finish exposes steel, not iron ready to rust.

It matters if you ride the DesertX year-round, on winter road salt, or after water crossings.

The silver finish is sandblasted and electrolyzed, leaving the steel exposed to match the frame and rims of the white DesertX. The black finish has a matte powder coating and blends in with the engine for a more discreet setup.

It only changes the appearance: the material, dimensions, mounting points, and package contents are identical.

The bar runs along the side of the tank and descends in front of the engine, following the fairing’s profile without protruding beyond the motorcycle’s outline. It is barely noticeable when stationary; in a fall, it is the first thing to make contact.

The brace closes off the front of the radiator, with the bars rising along the fairings and descending beside the engine. On the DesertX, these are the three areas that make contact first when the bike goes down—and also the most expensive ones to repair.

At the mounting points, the kit uses nylon bushings that prevent direct steel-to-frame contact, along with dedicated conical aluminum nuts instead of generic nuts. These are details you notice only during installation, but they are what distinguish a purpose-designed kit from an adapted one.

The manual specifies three different values: 20 N·m for the M8 screws, 12 N·m for the M6×30, and 10 N·m for the M6×25. This is not a detail to ignore, because the M6 screws are used at more delicate points.

Everything is installed, the supplied threadlocker is applied, and only at the end are the screws tightened in sequence. A torque wrench is required, and LOBOO recommends periodically rechecking the tightening.

The manual’s parts list contains 19 items: the four structural components, two M8×35 screws, two M8×20 screws, two M8×25 screws, one M6×30 screw, two M6×25 screws, six M8 washers and three M6 washers, two M6 self-locking nuts, two aluminum conical nuts, two nylon bushings, three spacers of different sizes, two cable ties, and threadlocker.

Auxiliary lights, light brackets, panniers, and subframes visible in the manufacturer’s images are not included.

The bars you’re about to install do more than provide protection: they’re already the ready-made mounting point for LOBOO Wanderer inflatable bags. A pair of 6-liter bags, each waterproof to IPX7, with key-operated anti-theft protection and a stated capacity of 300 kg per inflated bag.

They inflate when you set off and deflate when you return: carry what you need without installing frames or leaving anything permanently protruding from the side of the motorcycle. Make use of the Ø 25 mm tube you already have and go fully equipped.

How they inflate, how they attach to the tube, and what they really protect is explained in the guide to inflatable crash-bar bags.

Discover the inflatable bags →