High-frequency handlebar vibrations can permanently damage smartphones’ optical image stabilization: this is a known issue and is not covered by the warranty.

The PH06 features an anti-vibration magnetic mount that decouples the phone holder module from the base and filters out precisely those frequencies. This is the main difference from the PH02S, which uses silicone pads: it attenuates vibrations more, but even it does not eliminate them entirely.

The PH06’s load-bearing structure is made from high-precision machined aluminum alloy. It’s the difference you can feel in your hand compared with engineering-polymer mounts, and the difference that matters over time: plastic parts exposed to sunlight, temperature swings, and continuous vibration become brittle and crack right around the screws.

Aluminum costs more and weighs a little more. In return, the mount stays rigid where it needs to, while vibration isolation is handled by magnetic damping rather than by the flexibility of the material.

The phone is loaded from above and locks securely into place, with no tools or knobs to unscrew. To retrieve it, simply press the release button beneath the body: a one-handed operation you can perform while wearing gloves and without getting off the motorcycle.

The clamping range of the side grips is also adjusted with a single button, so the mount adapts to a different phone in just a few seconds. Rotation is handled by a mechanical gear that keeps its position without drifting due to vibrations.

The release is a single button beneath the mount body: press it, the clamps open, and the phone comes free. There is no knob to unscrew and no screw to readjust every time, so it can be operated with one hand, even while wearing gloves, including winter gloves.

In practice, it is the difference between grabbing your phone at the dispenser while staying on your bike and having to remove your gloves every time. The button is positioned so it cannot be reached accidentally by contact: the release occurs only when you press it.

The rotation isn’t held in place by the friction of a tightened screw, but by a mechanical gear mechanism. The difference becomes apparent after a hundred kilometers on rough roads: the angle you chose is still the same, instead of having slipped downward with every pothole.

Vertical to follow a route step by step, horizontal to get more context on the map, with the option to adjust the mount’s angle as well, bringing the screen into your line of sight. Changing it takes a second, but the usual rule still applies: do it while stationary, not while moving.

The 15 W wireless charging activates simply by placing the phone on it and is enough to maintain the charge with navigation active. When you really need to regain charge—screen at maximum brightness in the sun, long routes, phone already below twenty percent—the Type-C port delivers up to 36 W with fast charging.

12–16 V power from the motorcycle's electrical system, with eight integrated protections: reverse polarity, short circuit, overvoltage and undervoltage, overcurrent, overload, overtemperature, and foreign object detection. The right-angle cable for the Type-C port is an optional accessory and is not included in the package.

The Type-C port is present on all four versions, but the cable is not included: LOBOO sells it separately, and it is designed to be mounted on the handlebar, not used on a desk. It has an angled connector, so it does not protrude or create leverage when the mount rotates, along with a pure-copper core and a jacket designed to resist pulling and aging.

It is 230 mm long and rated for up to 60 W in the Type-C-to-Type-C version—more than the PH06 can deliver, so the cable is not the bottleneck. The actual power you see depends on the phone and the protocol it supports. This cable is not needed for wireless charging alone.

The charging module’s electronics do more than deliver power: they monitor eight conditions and cut off the power supply when any of them falls outside the limits. Reverse polarity, short circuit, overvoltage, undervoltage, overcurrent, overload, overtemperature, and foreign-object detection.

The first two matter during installation, when a reversed wire is the most common mistake. The others matter while riding: a motorcycle’s electrical system is not as stable as a household outlet, and foreign-object detection is what prevents the induction pad from heating a coin or key that has ended up between the phone and the pad.

The wiring has three wires and a specified layout: red to positive, black to negative, and yellow to ACC—the line that becomes live when you turn the key and switches off when you remove it—with a 10 A fuse on the positive wire. The manual also asks you to secure the cable in the holder’s cable clamp, leaving 9–11 cm between the outlet and the cable clamp: this is the slack needed for rotation.

Torque values vary by mount: 12 N·m on the M6 nut of the standard clamp, 3 N·m on the four M4×8 screws of the 13 mm bracket, and 10 N·m on the M6×16 and M6×22 screws of the mirror joint. The required Allen keys are included. On the sport motorcycle version, insert the expansion bushing into the hole while it is still loose, then expand it while tightening; LOBOO does not specify a torque for that screw.

Below you’ll find the name LOBOO uses for each mount, the diameter it fits, and the variant code to select, so you can order the right one without guesswork.

• Standard clamp model — Ø 22, 25.4 (1 inch), 28, and 32 mm tubes. The four bushings are included. Code PH06-WXBZ.
• 13 mm model — Ø 12–13 mm crossbars. It mounts above the instrument cluster: the best choice when there isn’t enough space in front of the dashboard. Code PH06-HC13MM.
• Mirror model — stem Ø up to 10.2 mm. It attaches to the mirror bracket, typical of scooters and small-displacement motorcycles. Code PH06-WXMR.
• Sportbike model — steering stem hole Ø 12–25.4 mm. Two expansion bushings cover the entire range. Code PH06-WXBZS.

The base cannot be replaced after purchase: use a caliper to measure the exact point where the mount will rest, because on many handlebars the diameter changes between the center and the ends. If you’re unsure, contact us with the model and year before ordering.

The mount accommodates smartphones from 65 to 92 mm wide and from 125 to 169 mm long, with a maximum thickness of 12.5 mm.

Thickness is the detail that’s often overlooked: measure it with the case fitted, because that’s how you’ll use the phone on the motorcycle.

LOBOO's stated criterion is precise and worth measuring before ordering: if the distance from the camera module to the phone's top edge, including the case, is more than 55 mm, the standard mount is not sufficient and the expansion kit is required.

The kit extends the length adjustment range by 22 mm and the thickness adjustment range by 6 mm, making it the solution for foldable phones and those with a protruding camera bump and a rugged case. It is sold separately and does not include the mount: if you think you need it, send us the phone's brand and model before ordering, and we will check together.

The body measures 184.7 × 96.6 mm with a depth of 93.7 mm, and the projection from the mounting point varies by attachment: approximately 56 mm for the standard clamp version, 30 mm for the mirror-joint version, and 48 mm for the sport motorcycle version. These are the figures that determine whether the mount fits between the windscreen and the instrument panel.

The manufacturer's dimensioned drawing lists each configuration separately, along with a table showing the 12–16 V input voltage, charging capacities, and material. LOBOO warns that the dimensions were measured manually and may differ slightly from the actual product: if you are working to the millimeter, measure the available space on the motorcycle before ordering.

The installation shots show the four typical positions: on the handlebar with the standard clamp, on the accessory crossbar above the instrument panel with the 13 mm version, on the mirror stem, and in the steering plate hole of a sportbike. They help you understand where the phone actually ends up relative to your line of sight.

On large adventure bikes with a tall windscreen, the crossbar is almost always the best position because it sits above the dashboard rather than in front of it. On bikes without a crossbar, the handlebar clamp remains the simplest choice. If you’re not sure which position will work on yours, send us a photo of the handlebar.