LOBOO specifies a nineteen-millimeter rise. That is just under two centimeters, and the modest height is intentional: it is enough to change the angle of your shoulders and wrists without moving the controls into an unnatural position or putting tension on the cable routing.

On a road enduro or a large-displacement adventure bike, those are precisely the millimeters you need when you stand on the pegs over rough terrain.

The riser supports the handlebar and, when riding standing up, much of the rider’s upper-body weight: it is a load-bearing component, not a spacer. LOBOO states that it is made from high-strength aluminum alloy using CNC machining, with high machining precision.

The alloy designation is not disclosed by the manufacturer, and we prefer not to specify one that no source confirms.

LOBOO talks about non-destructive installation: the risers fit onto the existing mounting points, with no drilling, cutting, or modifications to the steering plate.

It also means you can reverse the change whenever you want: reinstall the stock clamps and the motorcycle is back to its original state. This matters if it’s leased or you’re thinking of reselling it.

On the 790 Adventure, the result is clear: the handlebar rises while remaining parallel, the controls stay in the same position relative to your hands, and the added bulk is minimal.

LOBOO makes the same part in two finishes, black and silver. This is the black version, which blends into the dark components of KTM Adventure and Husqvarna motorcycles.

The same riser fits the KTM 390 Adventure, 690 Enduro R, 790 Adventure and Adventure R, 890 Adventure and Adventure R, 1050, 1090 and 1190 Adventure, 1290 Super Adventure R and S, as well as the Husqvarna Norden 901 and FE 350.

This is possible because these bikes share 28 mm handlebars and the same clamp spacing: LOBOO describes it as universal compatibility for that size.

If your model isn't listed, contact us before ordering: we'll check it together instead of guessing.

Risers don’t replace the handlebar: they take the place of the clamps and reposition the one you already have. The controls, grips, bar-end weights, and handguards stay where they are, so there’s no need to redo the wiring.

The seat is machined to match the original tube size, so clamping distributes pressure across the entire contact surface instead of concentrating it at a single point.

Nineteen millimeters is a modest rise, and the stock cable slack is usually sufficient, but it should still be checked: with the motorcycle stationary, turn the handlebars to full lock on both sides and inspect the cables, brake lines, and clutch line.

Nothing should become taut, bind, or rub. This is the most important check when installing a riser, and it should be repeated along with the tightening after the first one or two hundred kilometers.